Can I Eat My Garden? 

There are entire books on edible wild plants and on foraging, but I’ve never really paid much attention to them (even though I do have a few on my bookshelves).  For me, growing native plants is all about feeding Mother Nature, not about feeding me. But this year I harvested the first of my native wild black currants (Ribes americanum) with the hopes of possibly making a small batch of jam. So I thought for today’s article I would share with you some of the edible plants that grow in my garden and how I have used them. I’ve been told there are lots more that are edible in my garden than what I discuss here, but I’ve never tried tasting them. (Perhaps in the future I may do a series of articles on edible native plants that you can grow. But that will take a lot more research than I have time to do at the moment.) 

Wild Black Currant – Ribes americanum 

I planted two Wild Black Currant shrubs a couple of years ago. Last year they had a few currants, but this year they were loaded with fruit. Interestingly, the currants do not ripen all at the same time like the non-native red currants I have. Instead, one or two currants in each cluster will start to ripen, eventually becoming ripe enough to pick (if you get them before they fall off) and there will still be tiny green fruits on each cluster along with currants at various stages of ripeness. This makes harvesting a slow and tedious process. I collected fruit as it ripened over a period of a couple of weeks and put them in the freezer to make into jam once I had enough. That will be a winter project. 

Wild Black Currants don’t taste quite the same as their European cousins – I find them to be a tad more bitter, but any black currant jam recipe will work – though you may want to add a little more sugar.  

Wild Black currants will do well in any moist, well-drained soil (even heavy clay) and tolerate part shade to full sun. They get up to 6 feet tall and so far the plants in my garden don’t seem to be suckering, but if a stem touches down on the soil it may root. (Because of this, starting new plants from cuttings is very easy).  

Wild Ginger – Asarum canadense 

An early spring blooming plant of the forest floor, in my opinion Wild Ginger only superficially tastes like store bought ginger – the flavours are a bit more complex (one author described it as more peppery). You can grind it or slice it and use it in traditional recipes in place of commercial ginger but use with caution. This plant contains Aristolochic Acid (AA) which, in large doses, can be fatal – do your research before cooking with it. It does, however, make a good tea when steeped (AA is barely soluble in water so you would be unlikely to get enough to harm you). 

Wild Ginger wants full to part shade in moist rich soils. It will tolerate drier soils once established and is a great ground cover under those shady maple trees. 

Jerusalem Artichoke – Helianthus tuberosus 

The tubers from this sunflower relative get to about the size of fingerling potatoes (or even fist sized in some varieties) and can be cooked any way you cook potatoes. My personal favourite is to roast them in the oven with a bit of olive oil, salt and pepper. (As with oven roasted sweet potatoes, this seems to intensify the flavour). The center will go mushy when it’s cooked this way, but they are quite delicious. I’ve tried them pan-fried and boiled, too, but I always go back to oven roasting.  

Be forewarned, though – the tubers contain a lot of the soluble fibre inulin which can cause gas and bloating in some people (hence one of the plant’s common names – fartichoke). 

Jerusalem Artichoke will grow well (some say too well – it is a fairly aggressive spreader) in loose, well drained soils in full sun to part shade. But it’s not all that fussy about soils – a friend grows it very successfully in her garden which is heavy clay. It does like the soil to be a bit on the moist side for larger tubers, but it will rot if the soil is too wet. 

Wild Black Raspberry – Rubus occidentalis 

There are few treats sweeter than finding a Wild Black Raspberry bush full of ripe berries along the edge of a forest in early to mid-summer. Though they tend to be a little “seedier” than their red commercial cousins, they pack a lot of punch into a thimble-sized fruit. I like to eat them fresh, on their own or mixed with other berries, and drizzled with cream, or with a dollop of ice cream. But they also make an awesome jam, upside-down cake, crumble or any other sweet treat that you can use red raspberries for. And they freeze well. 

Wild Black Raspberries grow on canes that can reach up to 9’ long or more in full sun to part shade and they prefer moist, rich loamy soil, but will do well in a wide range of soil and moisture regimes. Wherever the tip of a cane touches down, it will root and send up a new stem. These new canes often have a bluish colour, allowing you to readily differentiate them from other raspberries and blackberries.  

Wild Leeks – Allium tricoccum 

Ramps, Leeks, no matter what they’re called, people will go to great lengths to collect these for the table each spring. Unfortunately, unscrupulous foragers have decimated wild populations throughout our region. Use Leeks where you would use their non-native, commercial cousins in your cooking.  They have a sort of garlic-shallot-cross flavour that can be quite intense. (As a young person, I planted trees and traveled to the planting sites in a van of Wild Leek eating co-workers, and the fumes were so powerful I’d sit with my face to the open window – despite the barely above freezing temperatures.)  

Leeks need rich, loose loamy soil with lots of organic matter and full to part shade. The leaves appear in spring for about a month to 6 weeks then disappear till the following spring. But if you’re observant, by mid- to late-summer, you’ll see a stem appear with white flowers that turn to tiny black seeds by early autumn. 

Virginia Mountain Mint – Physostegia virginiana 

I have only ever used Mountain Mint in tea, but its minty leaves and flower buds can be added to salads or used as a condiment (I’m thinking it would be fabulous on lamb chops). The leaves can be dried or used fresh.  

This hardy perennial is happy in most garden soils, from sandy to clay, and full sun to part shade, though it likes soils that aren’t too dry.  

Anise Hyssop – Agastache foeniculum 

Anise Hyssop, though not actually native to the southern Great Lakes region, is a pollinator magnet so I keep it in my garden. The licorice (anise) flavoured leaves and flowers, either fresh or dried, can be steeped to make a lovely tea. And though I haven’t tried it (yet) I recently found a website that said it can be added to hot chocolate, or blended into smoothies or cocktails. 

This short-lived perennial likes dry to medium, well drained sandy soils in full sun to part shade. In my garden, it is always covered with various bees when it’s in flower and the flowers last for several weeks. 

American Spikenard – Aralia racemosa 

The large clusters of burgundy berries on American Spikenard have a mildly sweet, almost floral flavour about them and are said to make excellent jams, jellies or fruit leather. I have only eaten them fresh but have a container-full in the freezer awaiting a slow-down in the garden so I can make them into jam.  

This perennial likes part shade (it is a forest edge species) that grows fast – it can get up to 150 cm (5’) tall in a single growing season before it dies off for the winter. The white flowers appear in early summer and the fruit starts to ripen in mid- to late-August. It prefers wet to medium-moist, fertile, humus rich soils.  

Wild Strawberry – Fragaria virginiana/Fragaria vesca 

As a kid, I loved finding a patch of wild strawberries in the fields at my uncle’s farm. The tiny red fruit packed all the flavour, and more, of the store bought counterparts. A bowl full of wild strawberries with cream was an amazing treat. They also make a great jam, and I have thrown fresh berries in a salad (when I’ve had lots). The challenge in my garden is beating the squirrels and birds to the ripe fruit. 

F. variegata (Wild Strawberry) differs from F. Vesca (Woodland Strawberry) in that the former likes full sun while the latter prefers full to part shade. The berries and leaves look very similar to the untrained eye, but there are subtle differences. Both species grow best in moist to medium moisture regimes (though Woodland Strawberries prefer the wetter end of the spectrum and Wild Strawberries the drier end), and neither is fussy about soil texture (sand, loam, clay). 

Happy (and tasty) Native Plant Gardening. 

Gentiana andrewsii

There isn’t much flowering in my southern Ontario garden as I write this in Mid October. A few asters, a couple of goldenrods, a few harebells (Campanula) and some Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia). One that stands out, however, is the Bottle Gentian (Gentiana andrewsii). This very late purple flowering plant with blossoms that stay tightly closed has been blooming for several weeks now. As usual, the Plant Description and In the Garden sections are courtesy of Shaun Booth from In Our Nature.

The tightly closed blossoms of Bottle Gentian are a lovely, though unusual, addition to the garden.

Scientific Name: Gentiana andrewsii

Common Name: Bottle Gentian

Family: Gentianaceae (Gentian Family)

Alternate Common Names: Andrew’s Gentian, Blind Gentian, Cloistered Heart, Closed Bottle Gentian, Closed Gentian, Fringe-top Bottle Gentian, Gall Flower, Prairie Closed Gentian, Sampson’s Snakeroot

Plant Description: Bottle Gentian has smooth, unbranched stems that are round and light green to purple. Opposite, stalkless leaves are found along the stem with the uppermost set of leaves being whorled. Leaves are broadly lanceolate, glossy on top and become larger as they ascend the stem, reaching up to 10 cm long and 5 cm wide. The stem terminates with a cluster of tubular flowers, but there may also be secondary flower clusters emerging from leaf axils. Each flower measures 2.5 cm to 4 cm long and has five fused petals with tiny teeth around their tips. The flowers never open and resemble closed buds even when in full bloom. Each flower turns into a papery capsule that splits open to release many tiny seeds. Each seed has papery wings that allow them to be carried by water or wind.

In the Garden: Bottle Gentian is valued by gardeners for its intriguing flowers and bold leaves. The flowers add a welcomed touch of blue to the late-summer garden, while the leaves take on shades of purple and burgundy in the fall. Bottle Gentian is not competitive, so choose its companions wisely. Slow growing but well worth the wait!

Skill Level: Beginner

Lifespan: Perennial

Exposure: Full sun to part shade

Soil Type: Humus-rich, slightly acidic, sandy loam

Moisture: Moist to wet

Height: 30–60 cm

Spread: 30-­50 cm

Bloom Period: Aug, Sept, (Oct)

Colour: Blue, purple

Fragrant (Y/N): N

Showy Fruit (Y/N): N     

Cut Flower (Y/N): Y

Pests: Mature plants are rarely bothered by foliar disease or leaf-chewing insects

Natural Habitat: Moist and shaded sites, meadows, damp prairies, and along shores

Wildlife Value: Especially valuable to bumblebees, just about the only insect with enough strength to force its way into the closed flower

Butterfly Larva Host Plant For: None

Moth Larva Host Plant For: Verbena Bud Moth (Endothenia hebesana)

USDA Hardiness Zones: 3–6

Propagation: Germination of seed requires cold, moist stratification for at least 60 days, and exposure to light (surface sow). Bottle Gentian are said to be difficult to start from seed, though William Cullina states that sowing outdoors in the fall produces excellent results. Some sources suggest plants may be propagated by dividing the root crowns in fall or early spring, but this is apparently tricky to do without killing the plant.

Bottle Gentian seeds are very tiny and should not be covered with soil as they need light to germinate.

Additional Info: Plant tends to lean at maturity, so plant among sturdier plants for support. If left undisturbed, plants in optimum growing conditions will naturalize over time into large clumps.

Native Range: (shaded area of map)

Got Shade Part 3 – Late Season Shade 

Fall tends to be a quiet time for flowers in the forests. Long gone are many of the showier shade perennials like Woodland Poppy (Stylophorum diphyllum) and the Meadowrues (Thalictrum species). And the spring ephemerals like Trilliums and Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum) are a distant memory. But it doesn’t mean the shade garden has to be bleak. There are some lovely shade plants that come to life this time of year – either with late season blooms, colourful berries or lovely fall foliage. Here are a few that can make your shade garden look nice as autumn rolls around. 

Forest floor in autumn

Fall Flowers 

Let’s start with fall flowers. In my gardens, Asters are the fall showstoppers. Whites, blues, purples and pinks abound. Mix in the yellows of goldenrods (Solidago spp) and Woodland Sunflowers (Helianthus divericatus) – at least into September – and you’ve got a winner. If your shade is moist, you may even have Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis), Blue Lobelia (L. siphilitica) or Sweet Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum) lasting well into September.   

But the true Autumn flowers for shade are the whites of White Wood Aster (Eurybia divaricata), Schreber’s Aster (E. schreberi) and Large-leaf Aster (E. macrophylla), and the blues of Blue Wood Aster – aka Heartleaf Aster – (Symphyotrichum cordifolium), Lowrie’s Aster (S. lowrieanum) and Short’s Aster (S. shortii).

If you have light or partial shade, you can add the pinks and purples of New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae), the blues of Sky Blue Aster (S. oolentangiense) or the whites of Arrow-leaved Aster (S. urophyllum) or Flat-topped White Aster (Doellingeria umbellata). Even the purple Swamp Aster (Symphyotrichum puniceum) can handle part shade if the soil is moist enough.  

For a splash of yellow, consider Zigzag Goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis) or even Green-headed Coneflower (Rudbeckia laciniata). And Bluestem Goldenrod (Solidago caesia) will give you lovely sprays of yellow well into September as well. 

White Snakeroot (Ageratina altissima) starts flowering with its umbels of white in midsummer and is going to seed by early September, but I find that it often sends out a second flush of flowers (even while the seeds are forming) that can last to the end of September and some years into early October. 

And if your shade garden has room for some shrubs, the frilly yellow flowers of Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) appear in October to November here in southwestern Ontario. 

Leaves and Berries 

Flowers aren’t the only things to provide autumn colour in the shade garden, though. Several fruiting shrubs and vines also provide colourful seeds and berries, or golds and purples of fall leaves. One such shrub is Northern Spicebush (Lindera benzoin) with its candy-apple red berries and bright yellow leaves in the fall. Another shade tolerant shrub with red berries that is loved by the birds is Red Elderberry (Sambucus racemosa) though, unlike the common elderberry (Sambucus canadensis), the berries are not edible for humans. In the southern Great Lakes region, the fruit of Red Elderbery can often be found on the plants (providing the birds don’t find them first) well into November.  

If you want a woody perennial, but don’t have room for a tall, spreading shrub, a ground hugging forest shrub (or short vine) with intriguing fruit is Running Strawberry Bush (Euonymus obovatus). Its rough pink seed pods open to display bright orange berries. But if you plant these, know that (in my garden, at least) the rabbits eat it back to stubs just about every winter. 

A long lasting understory plant is False Solomon’s Seal (Maianthemum racemosum) that produces plumes of beautiful white flowers in the spring that become clusters of Vitamin-C rich edible red berries in the fall.

Another medium-short forest shrub with blue-black berries in September and pink to purple leaves in October is Maple-leaf Viburnum (Viburnum acerifolium). This dainty beauty prefers moist shade.  

And ferns are always a good structural plant for shade gardens all season long. These plants provide filler when the spring ephemerals disappear and keep your garden looking lush well into the fall. There are so many to choose from, though some of my favourites are Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina), Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides), Sensitive Fern (Onoclea sensibilis), Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) and Bulblet Fern (Cystopteris bulbifera) as these particular ferns look great in a wide range of soil types and moisture regimes. Perhaps I will put together an article on ferns in the not too distant future. 

Happy Native Plant Gardening – in the Shade.

Smooth Aster 

It’s fall, the time for Goldenrods and Asters. For this month’s Plant of the Month, I will be covering Smooth Aster – a beautiful purply-blue, prolifically blossoming fall staple in the garden. One of the earlier asters to bloom in my garden, it signals the coming of autumn with its cooler temperatures and fall colours. As usual, the Plant Description and In the Garden sections are courtesy of Shaun Booth from In Our Nature. 

Symphyotrichum laeve (Smooth Aster) and Solidago nemoralis (Gray Goldenrod) – the colours of autumn

Common Name: Smooth Aster 

Scientific Name: Symphyotrichum laeve 

Family: Asteraceae (Aster Family) 

Alternate Common Names: Glaucous Aster, Purple Aster, Smooth Blue American Aster, Smooth Blue Aster, Smooth-leaved Aster 

Plant Description: Smooth Aster features one to a few erect, hairless stems that are usually green but can be a reddish colour. Leaves clasp the stems in an alternate pattern and measure about 10 cm long and 4 cm wide. They are smooth (almost waxy), shiny, toothless, and greenish blue on top and light green underneath. The basal leaves are toothed with winged petioles and are oblanceolate. Open, branching flower clusters are found at the top of the plant. Flowers can also arise from upper leaf axils (where the leaves meet the stem). Individual flowers measure up to 2.5 cm across and feature 15 to 30 oblong ray florets (petals) surrounding yellow centres that turn purplish red with age. Petal colour can vary from light blue to light purple. Four to six layers of bracts surround the base of each flower. They are smooth, appressed (flattened), and light green to bluish green and have diamond-shaped ends with a dark tip. Flowers give way to dry, brown, narrowly cone-shaped seeds, each with a tuft of light brown hairs that allow them to be carried by the wind. 

In the Garden: Smooth Aster is valued by gardeners for its copious blue blooms and non-aggressive growth habit. The flowers are frost hardy and bloom late into fall while the tough stems will persist through the winter months. Smooth Aster is easy to grow but doesn’t like being shaded by taller plants. A favourite food of rabbits, possibly due to the smooth leaves. 

Skill Level: Beginner 

Lifespan: Perennial 

Exposure: Full sun 

Soil Type: Any well-drained soil 

Moisture: Dry 

Height: 20–70 cm (occasionally to 120 cm) 

Spread: 30–60 cm 

Bloom Period: Sep, Oct (to frost) 

Colour: Blue 

Fragrant (Y/N):

Showy Fruit (Y/N):

Cut Flower (Y/N):

Pests: No serious insect or disease problems, though powdery mildew can affect the plant in some years 

Natural Habitat: Fields, open woods, and roadsides 

Wildlife Value: The nectar and pollen of the flower heads attract many species of native bees, butterflies, and other insects and Ruffed Grouse (Bonasa umbellus) and Wild Turkey (Meleagris gallopavo) feed on both the leaves and seeds of asters; the seeds are also eaten by mice and American Tree Sparrows (Spizelloides arborea

Butterfly Larva Host Plant For: Silvery Checkerspot (Chlosyne nycteis), Tawny Crescent (Phyciodes batesii), Northern Crescent (Phyciodes cocyta), Pearl Crescent (Phyciodes tharos), Painted Lady (Vanessa cardui

Moth Larva Host Plant For: At least 40 species of moths, including members of the tiger moths, ribbed cocoon-maker moths, case-bearer moths, twirler moths, geometer moths, leaf-blotch miner moths, slug caterpillar moths, owlet moths, clearwing moths, flower moths, trumpet leafminer moths, and tortrix moths. 

USDA Hardiness Zones: 3–9 

Propagation: Direct sow the seeds in late fall or early spring. No pretreatment is necessary even when starting indoors, but seeds need light to germinate. Germination is said to be slow. Transplanted seedlings will likely bloom in their first year. You can also multiply plants from root cuttings. 

Additional Info: Symphyotrichum laeve will tolerate short durations of seasonal flooding. It also self-sows strongly in open areas that are burned and mowed and is walnut (juglone) tolerant. 

Native Range: 

Fall Garden Prep for the Native Plant Garden 

The leaves are starting to turn colour, the air is getting cooler, and there are lots of gardening articles being written about what to do with your Canna Lilies and rose bushes and dahlias for the winter. But what about those of us who grow native plants? Do we have to do anything to prepare our plants and flower beds for winter? After all, Mother Nature has been looking after herself for millennia. 

How much fall prep you do will depend primarily on WHY you grow native plants.  

Leave the Plant Stalks 

When I started growing natives, I came from a background of conventional gardening, and the easiest way to put my native plant gardens to bed for the winter was to simply set my mulching mower as high as it would go and mow everything down. The result was a tidy looking flower bed that was ready to emerge in the spring.  

In the spring, after an extensive fall clean up, the flowerbeds looked tidy, but there was no shelter for overwintering insects.

Unfortunately, I also removed important habitat for bees and other insects. 

As my understanding grew of the importance of leaving stems for leaf cutter and wool carder bees and for small carpenter bees and others, I had to change my mind set. I started to leave a few of the pithy stems of Monarda (Bee Balm and Wild Bergamot) but I still “cleaned up” the rest of the flower beds by cutting down the asters, Joe Pye weed, coneflowers, etc. and hauling the debris to the municipal yard for composting.  

Leaving those stems was really hard to do – at first. It offended my sensibilities as to what a neat and tidy garden should look like for the winter. But whether it was my imagination or reality, I thought I detected more bees the next year, and more species of bees as well. So when fall rolled around again I compromised – I cut down most of the plants to about 18”, and rather than hauling the debris away, I cut it into 1-2’ lengths and left it on the ground.

Because my gardens are very densely planted, and some with very tall plants, I would have had a foot of cuttings if I dropped them all in the garden, so I kept it to a minimum by leaving one thin layer in the flowerbed, and placing the remaining stems in an out of the way corner of the yard. 

Surprisingly, it was my mindset that had the greatest change as a result of this new strategy. I no longer saw a “mess” in the flowerbed in the fall. Instead, I saw potential habitat. I saw that I was giving Mother Nature a helping hand. It’s one thing to provide native plants for bees, butterflies and caterpillars to feed on during the summer, but if you don’t provide them with a place to overwinter, then you are really only helping those species that migrate. 

Leaving the flower stalks has, in addition to the wildlife benefit, the added beauty of great structure in the winter garden. 

But is leaving the stems the only thing we can do?  

Leave the Leaves 

Leaving the leaves on our lawns is just about as difficult to do as leaving plant stems in the gardens for the winter for most of us. But it is just as important. I do rake my lawn in the fall, but I have much less area of lawn than I do of flowerbeds, so the leaves get raked onto the beds. They provide mulch to keep annual weeds down in the spring, and fertilizer as the leaves decay. And depending on the bed, I may put just a thin layer (on the beds of prairie species, for example) or a layer at least 6” thick under the sugar maples where Trilliums, Jack in the Pulpit, and other spring ephemerals need the organic matter and moisture retaining quality of the decaying leaves.  

Most of our spring forest wildflowers require deep, humus-rich soils to flourish. Decaying leaves provide this.

I actually have so many trees in my yard now that I now create piles of the excess leaves in the fall to be spread over the shade garden in mid-May when most of the leaves there have been consumed by insects, worms and microbes.  

But why is it important to leave the leaves, other than for mulch and natural fertilizer? 

For starters, many of our butterflies and some of our more spectacular moths overwinter in the leafy debris. 

According to the Royal Ontario Museum’s book Butterflies of Ontario, of the 127 species of butterflies in this province, 110 overwinter here.  

  • 6 overwinter as adults 
  • 12 overwinter as eggs 
  • 30 overwinter as a chrysalis 
  • 60 overwinter as a caterpillar, and  
  • 2 overwinter as either a caterpillar or a chrysalis. 

Many of these hide either in the leaf litter or in the ground (where the leaf litter helps to keep them warm). 

Many of our moths do the same. The ones we tend to get excited about – the large, showy ones – are no different. For instance, the beautiful green Luna Moth overwinters by using its silk to bind dead leaves around its cocoon. The Virgin Tiger Moth overwinters as a caterpillar, hiding in the leaf litter. And as for everyone’s favourite – the Hummingbird Clearwing Moth – the fully-grown caterpillars burrow in the leaf litter to pupate, emerging soon after and overwintering as an adult, or waiting in the cocoon until the following spring to emerge.  

So the less we can disturb the leaf litter, the better, as far as I am concerned.  

Do it for the Bees, Too 

We also have a number of ground nesting bees that greatly benefit from a quilt of leaves to help maintain a comfortable temperature all winter long. The leaves have the added benefit of slowing down the heating of the soil in a January thaw that might cause the bees to emerge too early before any food sources are available. 

The American Sand Wasp (Bembix americana) is just one of many ground nesting bees and wasps. These wasps are solitary predators that primarily target flies – including the annoying horse and deer flies – for their developing larvae. When the larvae mature, the tunnel is sealed for the winter. They pupate in spring and come out from their tunnels in summer.

As you start thinking about preparing your garden for its long winter rest, think of the insects that need the stems and leaves to survive till spring. Leave some stems, and leave the leaves. 

Campanulastrum americanum

Common Name: Tall Bellflower 

I’ve long admired these growing in an old-growth forest bottomland near me, but only recently found them at a native plant nursery. I think they are far nicer than the invasive Creeping Bellflower, and wish they were more commonly available in garden centers. (As usual, the Plant Description and In The Garden sections are written by Shaun Booth, formerly from In Our Nature)

Scientific Name: Campanulastrum americanum  

Family: Campanulaceae (Bellflower Family) 

Alternate Common Names: American Bellflower 

Plant description: Tall Bellflower features erect, hairy, mostly unbranching stems with slight grooves along them. The leaves are found in an alternate pattern and measure about 7.6cm – 15cm long and 1.2cm – 5cm across, becoming smaller as they ascend the stem. They are lance to egg shaped, taper to a sharp tip, hairy along major veins on the underside with a rough upper surface and have serrated margins. The leaf base narrows to hairy leaf stalks. Stems terminate with a flowers spike measuring 15cm to 60cm long with shorter flower spikes emerging from leaf axils (where the leaf meets the stem). Individual flowers are 2.5cm across with 5 blue petals and a creamy white center ring. The petals have wavy edges and pointed tips. Each flower has a style (reproductive organ) protruding from the center of the flower. Flowers give way to three sectioned seed capsules up to 1.2cm long that release numerous tiny brown seeds when mature.  

Not to be confused with the common exotic garden weed, Creeping Bellflower (Campanula rapunculoide) which has more bell-shaped flowers compared to the saucer shaped flowers of Tall Bellflower. Creeping bellflower is also much shorter and more aggressive. 

Not native (and considered invasive in most jurisdictions in northeastern North America and beyond) is Campanula rapunculoides – Creeping Bellflower.

In the Garden: Tall Bellflower adds a strong vertical presence to gardens with delightful spires of violet-blue, star-shaped flowers. If its seeds are started in fall, then it acts as an annual. If its seeds are started in spring then it acts as a biennial. Due to its short-lived nature, it will persist in your garden via self-seeding. 

Skill level:  beginner 

Lifespan: annual/biennial 

Exposure: sun to light shade 

Soil Type: rich loam, clay, sand, circumneutral (pH 6.8-7.2)  

Moisture: moist to medium (plants need regular and even moisture) 

Height: 150-200 cm 

Spread: 30-60 cm 

Bloom Period: Jun, Jul, Aug 

Colour: blue 

Fragrant (Y/N):

Showy Fruit (Y/N):

Cut Flower (Y/N):

Pests: no serious insect or disease problems though slugs and snails are occasional visitors, and watch for aphids 

Natural Habitat: marshy ground, stream banks, openings in deciduous forests, and in disturbed areas such as trails, edges of fields and along railroads 

Wildlife Value: A number of bees, including bumblebees and leaf cutting bees, butterflies and skippers, seek nectar and or pollen, and deer occasionally eat the flowers and foliage 

Butterfly & Moth Larva Host Plant For: none 

USDA Hardiness Zone: 4-7 

Propagation: [NT, L] No treatment needed as seeds germinate easily, but they require light to break dormancy, so do not cover the seeds.  

Additional Info: Deadhead spent flowers to encourage additional bloom. Plants are annual or biennial but will easily remain in a garden by self-seeding. Tall bellflower is listed as Endangered in New York State. 

Native Range: 

Native range (shaded) of Campanulastrum americanum – American Bellflower.