Early Buttercup 

As I write this in mid-June, my Early Buttercups are long finished blooming and have gone to seed. However, I chose to include them this month simply because I captured an amazing photo of the seed head a couple of weeks ago (which was the subject of this month’s jigsaw puzzle elsewhere on my website – you can access it at https://nativeplantgardener.ca/june-jigsay-puzzle/) and it has me thinking about this plant. 

As usual, the Plant Description and In the Garden sections are courtesy of Shaun Booth from In Our Nature. 

Scientific Name: Ranunculus fascicularis 

Common Name: Early Buttercup 

Family: Ranunculaceae (Buttercup Family) 

Alternate Common Names: Acrid Crowfoot, Bundle-root Buttercup, Cowslip, Dwarf Buttercup, Early Crowfoot, Low Buttercup, Prairie Buttercup, Thick-root Buttercup, Tufted Buttercup 

Plant description: Early Buttercup features both basal leaves and stems. Basal leaves are borne on long, hairy leaf stalks and divided into 3-5 leaflets that each measure about 2.5cm long. Each leaflet is lobed into 3-5 parts and has rounded tips that sometimes have a sharp point. Leaf surfaces are silky-hairy. Flowering stalks rise up from the basal leaves, bearing 1-2 stalkless leaves themselves. These stalks are green to purplish-brown and hairy. At the top of each stalk is a single flower characterized by 5 shiny yellow, oblong petals surrounding a yellow center that turns green with age. Each flower is about 2.5cm wide. Behind the flowers are 5 yellowish-green bracts that are shorter than the petals and covered in spreading hairs. The center of the flower matures into an oval shaped cluster of beaked seeds. 

In the Garden: The radiant yellow flowers of Early Buttercup are some of the first blooms you will see in the spring. Great for rock gardens and borders where it can be paired with plants of similar height. Herbivores leave this plant alone. 

I have found that my Early Buttercup plant is quite happy in a shallow planter on my deck (along with some other alvar plants). 

Skill level: beginner 

Lifespan: perennial 

Exposure: full sun to full shade 

Soil Type: any well drained soil, prefers a rather poor soil containing rocky material or sand 

Moisture: dry to medium 

Height: 15-20 cm 

Spread: 15 cm 

Bloom Period: mid-Apr, May 

Colour: yellow 

Fragrant (Y/N): N 

Showy Fruit (Y/N): N 

Cut Flower (Y/N): N 

Pests: no serious pests 

Natural Habitat: dry, open woods and prairies 

Wildlife value: a source of pollen for native bees and the seeds are eaten to a limited extent by various game birds and small mammals 

Butterfly Larva Host Plant For: none 

Moth Larva Host Plant For: Sparganothis Leafroller Moth (Sparganothis sulfureana) –

USDA Hardiness Zone: 3-9 

Propagation: The seeds are viable for a relatively short period only. Ideally propagate by sowing just before seeds ripen and keep the soil moist. Germination may take some time. Seeds need 60 days of cold moist stratification if starting indoors. 

Additional Info: This spring ephemeral goes dormant in the summer. Caution – in some people, contact with cell sap can result in skin redness, burning sensation and blisters. It does not like competition from taller plants. Note: this plant is considered Threatened in Ohio and Endangered in Pennsylvania. 

Native Range: 

On Buying Native Plants 

When I started growing native plants back in 2005/2006, native plant specialty nurseries were few and far between, poorly advertised, and the selection of plants was quite limited. And unfortunately, most of those early native plant nurseries I frequented are no longer in business – some because they couldn’t afford to keep the doors open, some because the owner reached an age where retirement seemed a good choice. 

In this month’s article, I’m going to talk a bit about native plant nurseries I have purchased from over the years and about the ones that are gone, the ones that survived, and the plethora of new ones that are appearing. All this is in anticipation of a new series of articles I plan to start later this month (in week 3) and will keep writing about each month as long as I can gather enough information. The series will be an in-depth look at Native Plant nurseries in the region. In the beginning these will be nurseries that I regularly do business with (there are lots!), but if the topic is popular enough I may try to expand to other nurseries as well. 

In the Beginning 

Living in fairly rural Southwestern Ontario has its advantages and drawbacks. First off, I live in the Carolinian Life Zone (https://inthezonegardens.ca/ontario/) – one of the most ecologically diverse regions in Canada, and the region with the most species at risk – and the range of plants that are native here is amazing. The drawback is that, with low a population density it can be a challenge to support a niche market (like native plant gardening) with so few people to buy your plants. But a few early adopters tried and those are the nurseries that got me started. 

Lost Nurseries 

I think the very first native plant nursery I visited was Wheatley Woods Native Plant Nursery and Garden Centre, just outside of Wheatley, Ontario. Craig had a nice selection of native plants and he was very helpful in getting me started down the right path. One of the big frustrations for Craig was that (to paraphrase him) little old ladies would come in and ask for hostas or begonias, or tell him they could get plants a lot cheaper at Walmart.  Unfortunately, it would seem he was just a bit ahead of the native plant gardening curve and eventually closed down (as near as I can find out – he operated from 2005 to around 2016, or thereabouts – I moved to Manitoba in 2014, and when I returned in 2018 he was no longer in business).  

Much closer to home, I used to also purchase native plants from a lovely little nursery just outside of Blenheim, ON (I don’t recall if the business actually had a name or not). Sherri’s is another business that disappeared while I was in Manitoba. In this case, I believe they sold their farm and moved on. 

Yet another great native plant nursery that has gone by the wayside (owner retired) was Grand Moraine Growers near Alma, ON (1999-2019). Fortunately, Origin Native Plants in Guelph (https://www.originnativeplants.com/shop) took over the remaining inventory and has carried on the tradition. Unfortunately for me, I didn’t discover GMG until the year they closed, but I did make two trips there that year and loaded up the car. I now buy plants from Origin almost every year. 

The final defunct nursery I’ll mention is another that I discovered in its last year of operation before the owner retired – Nith River Native Plants outside of Kitchener. Unfortunately I’ve not been able to find any information on the years that it operated. Graham had a fairly small greenhouse, but a wonderful selection of plants. But beyond that, I just loved the drive through the countryside to get to his place.  

Still Going Strong 

Despite the loss of a number of the early adopters, a number of those early nurseries are still going strong, and many, many more have opened their doors in the last few years. The demand for good quality native plants has grown tremendously in recent years, so with any luck these nurseries will be around for some time.  

Very close to where I live is a small nursery tucked away in a forest. Heavenly Earth (https://heavenlyearth.ca/) originally specialized in trees and shrubs, but has branched out into perennials in the last few years. I’ve made many trips to Liz and Dale’s little hidden piece of heaven and come home with a trunk full of plants. 

A little further afield for me is another survivor of the early native-plant-nursery extinctions – Not So Hollow Farm (https://notsohollowfarm.ca/) in Mulmur, ON (near Creemore, if that helps). Ian and Vicki also started with native trees and shrubs (around 2002) but have expanded to perennials, as well. They’re a little hard to find, but they have lots of beautiful plants. And the scenic drive there is worth the road trip alone even if you end up not buying anything. 

One of my top 3 favourite nurseries has to be Grow Wild! Native Plant Nursery, Landscaping and Biological Consulting (https://www.nativeplantnursery.ca/) which has been around since 2001. Paul’s always got some very interesting species in his collection, though he primarily sells wholesale only. (I have a special affinity to this nursery because it’s located in the little village of Omemee, ON where I grew up through my later elementary school and all of my high school years.) 

New Kids on the Block  

Fortunately for all of us native plant enthusiasts, there are a number of new (and relatively new) native plant nurseries coming on stream these days. And they cover most of the southern Great Lakes region (on both sides of the border).  

One of the newer establishments is Golden Alexanders (https://goldenalexanders.ca/) just outside of Sarnia, ON. This is another of my top 3 favourite nurseries. That’s because Nick has 2 emerald green thumbs and produces beautiful, healthy plants. He also has an amazing range of species available. He’s only open to the public on Saturdays because he’s busy doing landscape construction and maintenance the rest of the week. Golden Alexanders is the first nursery I will feature in my series of articles (in about 3 week’s time). 

Some more great sources of native plants (all of which I have purchased from over the years) are Prairie Song Nursery and Restoration (https://www.facebook.com/prairiesongnursery/) in Walsingham, Thedford Native Plants (https://www.thedfordnativeplants.ca/) near Thedford, Ontario Flora (https://www.ontarioflora.ca/) near Markdale, and just over the border in Quebec  not far from Ottawa is Beaux Arbres Native Plants (https://beauxarbres.ca/). There are many more – a few of which aren’t necessarily native plant specialty nurseries, but do carry a good selection of natives – and hopefully in the coming months I will be able to do articles on all of these sources, as well, plus many more.  

I would be remiss to leave out the one of the most popular mail-order-only sources: Ontario Native Plants or ONP (https://onplants.ca/). And, increasingly, there are also excellent sources of native plant seeds, including BotanyCa (https://botanicallyinclined.org/) from which I have made a few purchases. These, too, are apt to be the subject of future articles. 

In the meantime, check out my map of native plant sources throughout all of North America. (If you know of one that ISN’T on the map yet, please let me know so I can add it.) You can find that map at bit.ly/rixNPsources.  

In the meantime, keep an eye out for my first Native Plant Nursery profile, coming soon. 

Happy native plant gardening. 

Book Review 12 

Native Plants for the Short Season Yard: Best Picks for the Chinook and Canadian Prairie Zones 

By Lyndon Penner 

  • Publisher: ‎Brush Education, (2016) 
  • Paperback‏:‎ 272 pages 
  • ISBN-10: ‏155059640 
  • Dimensions: 6” X 9” 
  • Price: $9.99 (Amazon.ca – Kindle Edition); $10.49 (Amazon.com – Kindle Edition)  

– note: at the time of writing, this book appears to be no longer available in print form except as atrociously priced used copies, though you may be able to find it cheaper somewhere other than Amazon. 

Note: This review is adapted and expanded from the one I posted to Amazon after purchasing the book in 2022. I subsequently returned the book as it did not meet my expectations. 

I really wanted to like this little book. It is a good book for northern gardeners, and would be a great read to help you get through the long winter, but as a useful guide it is lacking. For starters, it is very text heavy – it takes a lot of reading to find out what you might need to know for any particular plant. In addition, the photos are very small and not all that helpful. 

I did appreciate that the plants were listed in alphabetic order by scientific name, but they are grouped by shade tolerance. This is problematic for several reasons. For one, many native plants often do OK in a large range of shade. Aquilegia (columbine), for instance, is listed in the full sun category in this book, though in many other books it is listed as part shade (and in one book that I recently read it was listed as part shade to full shade). In my own garden, it thrives in all three shade categories. As a result, it is difficult to decide where I should start looking for a particular plant. 

Another complaint I have is the index – under Aquilegia, it says to see Columbine. Why would you not just put the page number beside Aquilegia? And this is how ALL the scientific names are handled. It just means you need to take an extra step if you happen to know the scientific name rather than the common name (and I have discussed at length, elsewhere, the problems with common names). 

My biggest beef with the book, though, is that with the title Native Plants for the Short Season Yard, even though the author talks about the importance of native plants, he says “sometimes, hybrid or garden forms are better choices” and then goes on to add “Don’t be a purist”. There is lots of research now available that indicates that hybrids (sometimes referred to as nativars – for native cultivar) do NOT provide the same benefits to insects that the pure strains do. Yet the author does not discuss this aspect of using cultivars.  

Despite the flaws, there are some other good things the author has done. For one, there is a section called Potential Threats to Native Plants, that includes, among other things, a discussion on invasive species. He also talks about the use of natural alternatives to pesticides. In addition, he spends some time discussing how to ethically and responsibly grow native plants from seeds and cuttings and why we shouldn’t dig plants from the wild (unless, of course, the land is slated for development). 

Given the paucity of books on native plant gardening for northern climates, this might be a great starting point if you’re looking for something to read this winter, but I was quite disappointed in the book overall, despite wanting to like it (for the very reason that there ARE very few books on the subject). It really is aimed at gardeners in the Canadian prairies (and perhaps the northern-most Midwest States) but the like any good gardening book, there is probably lots that other gardeners can get from this little volume. 

If you’re looking for a good winter’s read, and you don’t mind reading the kindle version, then this would be a good little book for a northern gardener. But in the end, I only gave 3 stars out of 5. 

Happy Native Plant Gardening. 

© The Native Plant Gardener 2024 

Parlin’s Pussytoes 

As I write this in mid-May, my Parlin’s Pussytoes are full of blossoms AND full of tiny caterpillars. This early blooming perennial is not as showy as some, but it is a welcome sight with butterflies flitting about laying their eggs on the leaves in early May. These eggs turn into tiny, spiky caterpillars that make a tent out of leaves and silk, eventually molting through several stages and finally turning into American Lady or Painted Lady butterflies.  

These plants make a great garden edge – low enough that even the lawnmower is unlikely to do them much damage. I also love they way they spread their windborne seeds and pop up in unexpected places in my garden.  

As usual, the Plant Description and In the Garden sections are courtesy of Shaun Booth from In Our Nature. 

Scientific Name: Antennaria parlinii 

Common Name: Parlin’s Pussytoes 

Family: Asteraceae (aster family) 

Alternate Common Names: Ladies’ Tobacco, Smooth Pussytoes 

Plant description: Parlin’s Pussytoes feature both basal and alternate leaves. Basal leaves are up to 9.5cm long and 4.5cm wide, toothless and rounded at the tip. The leaves have 3-5 prominent veins and fine hairs that give the leaves a gray-green appearance with the undersides of the leaves taking on a more silvery-gray look. Widely spaced alternate leaves are found along the flowering stalk and are much smaller than the basal leaves but are still hairy with smooth margins. From the basal leaf clumps emerge hairy flowering stalks, each topped by a cluster of small flowers that give the appearance of a cat’s paw. Flowers give way to tiny brown seeds topped with a cotton-like tuft of white hair that allows them to be carried by the wind. 

In the Garden: Parlin’s Pussytoes are an adaptable, low growing groundcover that thrives in tough conditions. 

Skill level: beginner 

Lifespan: perennial 

Exposure: full sun to full shade (prefers full sun) 

Soil Type: lean, gritty to rocky or sandy-clay, well-drained soils 

Moisture: dry to medium 

Height: 15-25 cm 

Spread: 20 cm 

Bloom Period: May 

Colour: white 

Fragrant (Y/N): N 

Showy Fruit (Y/N): N 

Cut Flower (Y/N): Y 

Pests: no serious insect or disease problems 

Natural Habitat: prairies, dry meadows, sloped open woodlands and in disturbed sites like eroded banks or abandoned fields. 

Wildlife Value: the leaves are a preferred food for deer, quail and rabbits. 

Butterfly Larva Host Plant For: American Lady (Vanessa virginiensis), Painted Lady (Vanessa cardui) 

Moth Larva Host Plant For: Everlasting Tebenna Moth (Tebenna gnaphaliella)

USDA Hardiness Zone: 5-9 

Propagation: There is little information available on starting Parlin’s Pussytoes from seed other than that it may be difficult and is slow to germinate. The very small seeds require light to germinate therefore surface sow. New plants may be propagated by dividing clumps in the spring, or from cuttings. My experience is that this plant readily self sows in the garden, so I’m thinking it should be a great candidate for winter sowing.

Additional Info: One of the few native plants that does well in dry, shady locations, it does not do well in fertile, humusy soils, particularly if drainage is poor. This plant is similar to Field Pussytoes (Antennaria neglecta) but the leaves on that plant tend to be narrower and shorter and do not have the prominent veins underneath.

Native Range:  

Building a Mini-wetland

As a native plant gardener in a small southwestern Ontario town, I am blessed to have a half-acre property with a variety of growing conditions. These range from dry, full sun to dry, full shade and from moist, full sun to moist, full shade, and pretty much everything in between. But of course that wasn’t enough, so in 2012 I brought in 40 tons of Manitoulin Island limestone and built an “escarpment”, complete with a waterfall. (This will likely be the subject of a future article – or two). After I retired in 2018, I added a bog garden (see my Dec 2022 article The Boggy, Boggy Dew – the story of Creating a Bog Garden) at the base of the falls. In that article, I lamented that in my impatience to get plants established, I planted a number large, aggressive wetland plants that were overwhelming the delicate bog plants the garden had been designed for.

In 2022 I decided to rectify that problem by building a “wetland” in my back yard – a place I could put all those tall, aggressive spreaders. This is the story of that project.

What is a Wetland?

In Canada (the US has similar definitions) “wetlands are submerged or permeated by water – either permanently or temporarily – and are characterized by plants adapted to saturated soil conditions” (Government of Canada). There are 4 main classifications of wetlands, defined primarily by the source of water. These are Fens and Bogs (defined in my previously mentioned article) and Marshes and Swamps. Marshes and Swamps differ mainly in the vegetation type – Swamps are treed wetlands while Marshes have little or no woody vegetation. Because its size precludes planting trees, I guess my wetland could be considered to be a Marsh.

Where to Start?

As my yard fills up with various flower beds, it is increasingly challenging to find room to create a new feature. I decided to create the wetland near the back of the property, which is about a 6 foot drop below the level at the front. This would allow me to run water via gravity to the wetland during periods of drought.

But, in order to have a large enough area, I had to remove half of the very first flower bed that I built (back in 2005). That, of course, necessitated first creating a new flower bed to move all those plants to. Because of weather conditions, that ended up being a much longer project than anticipated, and delayed the start of the wetland by a year. But in the spring of 2023 I was ready to begin.

My first step was the design. Originally I wanted to incorporate a pond into the wetland, but soon realized that in the small space available this would not be feasible without a lot of engineering. I needed to keep it simple.

In the end, I opted for a two-phase project – a wetland and an adjacent pond. (The pond was supposed to go in this year, but other projects have taken priority so it may not happen till late this fall or some time in 2025.)

Digging the Hole

Then came the “fun” part – digging the hole. There was a lot of dirt to move, and tree roots to work around, but fortunately no stones bigger than a chicken egg (I love my soil!). The hole would be about 170 sq ft and 3’ deep for a total volume of soil of almost 20 cu yards. According to the internet, this weighed somewhere between 10 and 20 tons. (No wonder I had rippling abs by the end of the project!!)

My soil is a sandy loam with excellent drainage, to it was pretty obvious I was going to need to put in some sort of rubber or plastic liner to keep the water from simply draining away. Because I was starting this in the early spring, none of the pond supply places near me had large rolls of pond liner. But a friend came to the rescue – they had an extra piece of plastic tarp used to cover silage on the farm just sitting up in the barn collecting dust, and they graciously donated it to the cause.

Filling in the Hole

Once the liner was in place, I needed a way to make sure the water was distributed through the entire area, but with every option I considered – from “big O” pipe to solid pipe – I ran into the concern of roots plugging the pipe. Even though there would be no tree roots, and I felt that most of the wetland plants wouldn’t reach a meter down with their roots, I couldn’t be sure. So I opted to at least wrap the perforated pipe in a heavy duty landscape fabric.

Then it was simply a matter of putting all the dirt back in the hole and waiting for a few good rainfalls to settle the soil (which it did – a couple times) and then topping it back up.

A few years ago, when a neighbour moved away, I bought several bags of fine peat moss from him that was left over from when he had put in a swimming pool (it had been used, instead of sand, under the pool liner). I spread this about 4-6” deep over the surface and rototilled it in to add some organic matter and water holding capacity to the soil.

Bringing Water

The next step was to bury a 2” pipe from the house to the new wetland. Even though the hole was lined and would hold water, we had a couple of very dry years in a row and I wanted a way to supplement the rain in the event of a drought – without having to drag 150’ of garden hose to the back of the property. Of course, with trees and flowerbeds all through the lawn, I couldn’t lay the pipe in a straight line, though I did dig the trench through one of the flowerbeds rather than go around it.

Laying the pipe was actually one of the hardest parts of the job as it had to be fed under existing pipes and utilities.

Filling With Plants

Digging the plants out of the bog garden and replanting them into the wetland turned out to be a hot and sweaty job – but fortunately a friend dropped in to help. We got everything moved in an afternoon, and there was even room for some new additions.

The moisture loving plants I have in the wetland so far are:

– Spotted Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium maculatum)

– Sweet Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum)

– Water Avens (Geum rivale)

– Southern Blue Flag Iris (Iris virginica)

– Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis)

– Seedbox (Ludwigia alternifolia)

– Prairie Loosestrife (Lysimachia quadriflora)

– Monkey Flower (Mimulus ringens)

– Royal Fern (Osmundus regalis)

– Ditch Stonecrop (Penthorum sedoides)

– Dark Green Bullrush (Scirpus atrovirens)

– Ohio Goldenrod (Solidago ohioensis)

– Riddell’s Goldenrod (Solidago riddellii)

– Bog Goldenrod (Solidago uliginosa)

– Purple Stemmed Aster (Symphyotrichum puniceum)

– Marsh Fern (Thelypteris palustris)

And a couple of volunteers from nearby gardens:

– Cut-leaved Toothwort (Cardamine concatenata)

– Yellow Jewelweed (Impatiens pallida)

– Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)

Now I just have to wait till they grow and fill in the wetland, and find out if there will be room for some others. In the meantime, it’s back to some of those other projects.

Cheers,

Rick

Book Review: Native Plants for Prairie Gardens

By June Flanagan

· Publisher: Fifth House Books, (2005)

· Paperback: 208 pages

· ISBN-10: 1391894856

· Dimensions: 9” X 9”

· Price: $33.21 (Amazon.ca); $10.91 (used, on Amazon.com)

Note: This review is adapted and expanded from the one I posted to Amazon after purchasing the book in 2017.

The title is a bit misleading. I was expecting more of a field guide to plants suitable for gardening. Instead, the book is more about acquiring, planting and growing the native species. It contains very few pictures – mostly text. I probably would have called the book “Gardening with Native Prairie Plants” because what you get is a well thought out treatise on that topic.

The book starts with definitions of prairie, then lists the plants for various uses in the garden (colour, xeriscaping, shade, winter interest, etc.). The chapter on acquiring native plants differentiates between garden center sources (true native plants vs cultivars) and gathering your own seed – including a section on storing your seeds.

The author talks about adding organic matter to help your gardens, and this may be necessary for her region, but in southern Ontario my experience has been that adding organic matter only makes your plants tall and “leggy” and prone to falling over. They are quite capable of finding all the nutrients they need with their deep roots.

There is a chapter on plant propagation that is quite good, but if you are serious about this aspect, I highly recommend you also get The Tallgrass Prairie Center Guide to Seed and Seedling Identification in the Upper Midwest (see my book review from Nov 24, 2023).

In the final chapter (which is slightly more than half the book) the author identifies a number of wildflowers, grasses and woody plants, and includes a table on the blooming period of the plants. Each plant is well described, with one (albeit very good) photo of each plant, and lots of interesting information. The area the book covers is the upper Midwest of the US and the southern Prairie provinces in Canada – all points west of Lake Michigan and Ontario and although most of the plants listed are not native to my southern Great Lakes region, a few are. But that is not the strength of this little book. What I liked about the book is contained in the first half – the parts about using the plants in your garden.

If you are in the southern Great Lakes region, this book may not offer enough for you, but it’s a great read and I believe it was worth adding to my collection.

Happy Native Plant Gardening.

© The Native Plant Gardener 2024

Virginia Mountain Mint 

The fragrant minty leaves of this plant can be used in your dinner, but I prefer it to leave it in the garden where lots of bees and other pollinators can be found on the flowers. The tiny white flowers, upon close inspection, are covered in little purple polka dots. This delightful flower is a must have in your native plant garden, and it tolerates a wide range of light, soil and moisture conditions. As usual, the Plant Description and In the Garden sections, below, are courtesy of Shaun Booth from In Our Nature. This Plant of the Month article has been adapted from our book The Gardener’s Guide to Native Plants of the Southern Great Lakes Region. 

Common Name: Virginia Mountain Mint 

Scientific Name: Pycnanthemum virginianum 

Family: Lamiaceae (Mint Family) 

Alternate Common Names: American Mountain Mint, Common Mountain Mint, Mountain Mint, Mountain Thyme, Pennyroyal, Prairie Hyssop, Virginia Thyme, Wild Basil, Wild Hyssop 

Plant description: Virginia Mountain Mint is a bushy plant with frequently branching stems that are 4-angled, green to reddish in colour and have scattered hairs along the edges. Opposite, stalkless leaves are found along the stem, the largest of which measure up to 6cm long and 1cm wide. Each leaf is toothless, hairless and has a pointed tip and rounded base. Stems terminate with numerous flat clusters of densely packed, tubular flowers. Each flower is small, at about 0.6cm wide, and features an upper lip with 2 lobes and a lower lip with 3 lobes. The upper lips often look like one lip. Both lips are white with purple spots. Flowers each mature into a dry capsule that holds 4 tiny, black seeds. 

Similar to Slender Mountain Mint (Pycnanthemum tenuifolium) which has smooth stems and narrower leaves. 

In the Garden: There are many reasons to love Virginia Mountain Mint including its copious, long-lasting blooms to its persistent seed heads that provide excellent winter interest. The minty foliage not only smells delightful but is rarely, if ever, bothered by browsing herbivores. 

Skill level: beginner 

Lifespan: perennial 

Exposure: full sun to part shade 

Soil Type: sand, clay, loam 

Moisture: medium to moist to wet 

Height: 75-90 cm 

Spread: 30-45 cm 

Bloom Period: Jul, Aug, Sep 

Colour: white with purple 

Fragrant (Y/N): Y (leaves) 

Showy Fruit (Y/N): N 

Cut Flower (Y/N): Y 

Pests: no serious insect or disease problems, though stressed plants are susceptible to rust 

Natural Habitat: mesic to wet prairies, edges of streams, marshes and sedge meadows 

Wildlife value: typical visitors include honeybees, and a wide variety of native bees, beetles, and seems to be a favourite of Pearl Cresecent (Phyciodes tharos) butterflies 

Butterfly Larva Host Plant For: none 

Moth Larva Host Plant For: none 

USDA Hardiness Zone: 3-7 

Propagation: No pretreatment of seeds is necessary, but the tiny seeds need light to germinate so simply press into the soil in spring. Easily propagated by tip cuttings taken in June, or by lifting the clump in late fall or early spring and dividing. 

Additional Info: Tolerates flooding early in the growing season only. Drought tolerant. Can be an aggressive spreader but is less so in drier soil. 

Native Range: